The Logudoro area: from Sassari to Berchidda Sardinia

It is a well articulated route that which from Sassari leads to Olbia, along the legendary highway 131, passing through the fertile land of central northern Sardinia's Logudoro; an area of volcanic origin. Today, Logudoro, which over the last 60 years had witnessed a significant demographic decline, is now enjoying a period of gradual and constant expansion.

Our journey along the historic highway commences in a landscape dominated by the forms of the distant mountains: here we come across three towns, Cargeghe, Muros and Ossi, the last of which is one of the most important urban centers in the area, along with Ozieri and Chiesi. The wild and rugged beauty of this territory is typical of the island of Sardinia, as are the groves of olive trees which are cultivated in abundance here.

The first stop on our itinerary through the Logudoro brings us to the Church of the Santissima Trinità della Saccargia; without doubt one of the most beautiful houses of worship in the whole of Sardinia. This ancient abbey is situated 16kms from Sassari, in the vicinity of another important thoroughfare; the S.S. 597, which connects Sassari to Olbia. This magnificent and isolated abbey dominates the surrounding countryside. The building, which was home to the Camaldolesi Monks, dates back to the 12th century and, with its great alternating blocks of dark basaltic rock and white limestone, provides a fine example of the Pisan Romanesque style.

In the immediate proximity of the abbey, which attracts numerous tourists throughout the year, we find the small town of Codrongianus which, with its 1300 inhabitants, is situated some 317mt above sea level on the hills of the Logudoro. The dialect spoken in this area, known as the Logudorese, is considered to be the principal literary dialect of the Sardinian language, forming the basis of the Limba Sarda Comuna, also known in its abbreviated form "LSC", and the subject of extensive studies by linguists and philologists.

Our journey continues towards the Coghinus lake, the most important lake in terms of volume in the whole of northern Sardinia. It was created during the Fascist regime, by the damming of the river Coghinus at the eastern boundary of the Logudoro - an intervention which made the surrounding lands, now covered with olive groves and vineyards, extremely fertile.

Passing through the Chilivani plain, we arrive at Ozieri, a small town renowned for its delicious "Sospiri" cakes, made from marzipan. These are not the only sweet delicacy to be enjoyed here; "sas copulettas"; made with sponge cake soaked in almond water, and "orgliettas"; plaits of pastry drizzled in honey, also deserve a special mention. Honey is also used to glaze the "seadas"; deep fried ravioli filled with sour cheese. The undisputed signature dish of the area is that of wild boar, roasted over an open fire and served on large wooden or cork trays. The wafer thin "spianate" bread, accompanies most meals.

Once past the district of Oschiri and the Lombard-Romanesque style Nostra Signora di Castro Sanctuary, we come to the mountainous area of Monti di Alà; the slopes of which, covered in thick vegetation, reach heights of over 1000mt.

The last stop on our journey is that of Berchidda, 30kms from Olbia. This Sardinian town is renowned for both its wine and for the international Jazz festival hosted here each year. The Vermentino wine is produced from the grape of the same name; most likely of Portuguese origin and used in a great number of Sardinian wines. Berchidda's "Museo del Vino" is the first multimedia Museum dedicated to wine to be opened in Italy and offers visitors the opportunity to discover all of the most significant traditional Sardinian wines. Having been the birth place of Paolo Fresu, one of Europe's most highly acclaimed jazz trumpeters, has resulted in Berchidda's transformation in an inspirational enclave of Afro-American music in Sardinia. Here, in August of each year, Fresu's international "Time in Jazz" festival, attracts the most important exponents of the world jazz scene to this fascinating part of Sardinia.